Zing

This is one of my favorite times of year in the Southwest. Not only is our little “mountain” turning a rich shade of green not often seen here in the desert, we’re also enjoying a bountiful influx of citrus, so that throughout my house are strategically placed bowls of varying shades and cross-shades of oranges and yellows.

Last night, My husband hefted home from work (where our citrus trees reside) a garbage-bag full – one of those bags that stretches – of outsized lemons, navel oranges and tangelos, and some state-fair-ready ruby red grapefruit. I’ve never seen grapefruit so huge, or tasted grapefruit so rich with juice.

I’ve already prepped some dough for tonight’s lemon-herb focaccia, and I have all sorts of other plans for the lemons that just keep on coming. Lemons are one of my favorite ingredients to work with – they have such a brightening, punchy power.

Here’s what I’ll be up to in the coming weeks:

  • Squeezing the juice for everything from couscous to vinaigrette
  • Zesting like crazy – these lemons are unwaxed, making the perfect zesting specimens
  • Baking Alice Medrich’s lemon bars, a yearly ritual
  • Slicing lemons to place atop broiled fish or to class up a simple glass of water

Comments (3) »

Greened

[Recipe: Roasted Greens]

I just downed a couple snack-sized boxes of Hot Tamales still haunting me from Halloween (they keep well, apparently). As part of my penance, I feel compelled to tell you about my new freakishly healthy snack.

This one is for all you savory cravers out there. Sometimes salty and hearty are called for over sweet.

I learned to roast greens from Lynne Rossetto Kasper (not personally, of course; I learned from her most recent cookbook, but you know how it is with Lynne — she’s so warm it all seems personal). I loved greens before — the chards, the kales, the collards and every leafy thing in between — but roasting them somehow concentrates and heightens their flavors, and brightens their complexity. It even renders them a little bit crispy in places. Yes, the word succulent would not be overstating the matter.

I’ve roasted them with cubed winter squash to toss with farfalle and a little Parm, and have done the same with golden beets over Israeli couscous.

Now, I can’t get enough, so it’s a good thing they’re quick and easy to make. Just heat your oven to 425 degrees and grab a baking sheet. Rinse your greens really well and chop, toss them with a little extra virgin olive oil (flavored ones are especially yummy), some salt and pepper, maybe a clove or two of minced garlic and some red pepper flakes. Spread the greens on the baking sheet and roast for about ten minutes, then stir them around. If they’re not done to your liking yet, put them back in the oven for 5 or 10 minutes more. When they’re good and wilty and crispy in spots, scrape them into a bowl and serve. For an extra punch, toss with a teaspoon of red wine vinegar or a bit of lemon juice just before serving.

Comments (5) »

Winter

Sights: A bowl of just-plucked grapefruit, stems and leaves intact; a tangle of onions shimmering bronze and soft

Sounds: The clatter of rain on the roof; the hiss of moisture in a hot saucepan; the piano undergoing practice, and the recitation of French devoirs

Smells: Woody rosemary; bright lemon; necessary garlic; and rain, when the door is opened

Touch: The light heft of a wooden spoon; the tenderness of an avocado; the grooved, cold handle of a pan

Tastes: Creamy cannellini; hint of bay; crush of orange

Menu: Rosemary white bean soup; grilled cheese with aged Kingston cheddar; salad of baby greens, orange segments, avocado and a smattering of walnuts, chopped

This is my winter.

Comments (3) »

Fix

Is there nothing better this time of year than the gift of some homemade deep chocolate confection? I should say not, but seeing as I’m the one home-crafting said chocolate goodies for my friends and neighbors, maybe that’s a little prideful.

But I promise I’m humble. I take zero credit for this brilliance-on-a-stick — other than the fact that I actually executed this recipe in my kitchen (this is a feat: I can’t claim a fault-free past when it comes to candy making).

Knowledge of these cocoa blocks are my due reward for taking time to peruse catalogs the way I do, as though I had all the time and money in the world. I found the recipe* in the King Arthur Flour catalog, and the trimmings have been providing my chocolate fix these past couple of days.

What these fudge-like squares are really destined for is a swirl inside a mug of steaming hot milk. Can there be a more delightful way to make hot chocolate?

*The recipe suggests adding hazelnut or vanilla extract, but I love a little cinnamon in my ho-cho, so I added about a teaspoon-and-a-half of ground cinnamon. A little cayenne or chili pepper might be good, too.

Share this Post

Leave a comment »

Crumbled

I’m the gloomy addressee of yet another flimsy postcard announcing the regretful demise of a magazine. This time it’s Cookie, and it makes for the third one this year to go bye-bye (following my beloved Domino at the first of the year and, later, Gourmet).

Why am I so bummed? Notwithstanding that this points again to the general sad state of print media, Cookie was a bright resource in this age of modern parenting, full of pretty things and smart writing. Reading it felt like indulgence, not like I was boning up on parenting know-how.

I’ll probably miss the cooking articles most, the way editors emphasized real cooking for real kids who eat real food. I’ve clipped as many well-written recipes out of Cookie as I have any food magazine.

My favorite column was the one that sketched out dinners like a road map (called “So You Have…”). It would start with a photo of something at the center — avocados, wilted greens, eggs, whatever you might have handy — and point the way to three possible meal outcomes. It was dinner-at-a-glance, positioned to make any busy mom feel like quality homemade was possible in a snap. Cookie’s food coverage — indeed, the bulk of it’s articles — were practical and intelligent with the aesthetics to match.

Share this Post

Leave a comment »

Stir

It’s been cold, right? Thick-sock-wearing cold. Huddle-under-a-blanket-with-a-book cold. Even put-that-fireplace-to-use cold.

And I like it.

Know what else I like? Polenta. Specifically, when it’s cold enough for cooking polenta over a hot stove, steam in your face and those thick socks on your feet. I like all that stirring and watching the great golden bubbles rise to the top and audibly pop.

To my left, Quinn is populating a pretend “California” with a bin’s worth of Polly Pockets (the requisite accessories and outfits included). To my right, Emmie is puffing and piping clarinet scales.

Me? I’m stirring to the stories in Nicole Krauss’ “A History of Love”. No, it’s not the same as reading huddled under a blanket, but soon I’ll be tucking into this polenta, which might be better than than the blanket part.

Make it:

Grab a medium-sized saucepan. Stir 1 tablespoon kosher salt and 1 2/3 cups coarse polenta into 7 cups cold water (cold water means fewer lumps). Add a couple small bay leaves and bring it all to a boil, then add a tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil. Reduce heat to medium low and stir — continuously so the polenta won’t stick — for about 30 to 40 minutes, until the polenta is thick and pulls away from the sides of the pan (and watch where you put your book — don’t let it get too close to the burner, especially if it’s from the library). Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. If, like me, you feel so inclined, add a handful or three of freshly grated Parmesan.

Comments (3) »

Reformed

I was in a friend’s kitchen the other day, where she was teaching a class on soups. We gushed and mmmm-ed our way through bowls of butternut squash and red pepper soup, and we all voiced the same confession: We reviled squash as kids.

I can’t say it’s much of a revelation that every woman in the room hated squash as a child. Consider it’s usual back-then presentation: bland bowls of hot and stringy orange glop, hardly more appealing than my baby sister’s jar of Gerber. What 8-year-old wants to eat baby food?

Squash isn’t the only thing we collectively recoiled from as girls that we’ve since come to like. We didn’t like boys so much, then, either.

But, thankfully, just as boys grew more likable, so did squash. There are countless inspirations out there for using the seemingly countless varieties: velvety butternut soups; halved acorns glazed with maple and stuffed with grains; mini-pumpkin fondues and salads of simple greens topped with roasted cubes of your favorite, fill-in-the-blank squash.

High on my list of squash preparations is this one. It’s bound to reform any hold-out, anyone with lingering squash hatred that squash is indeed sweet.

Comments (3) »

Surreal

Yesterday I had one of those looking-at-myself-from-the-outside moments, when I was wearing my apron and baking loaves of whole grain bread and nice voices were rising from the spot on the floor where my kids were playing together (nicely!) and I had a soothing piano concerto on in the background and my husband was off scrounging for eggs from our co-op chickens and I thought:

How did I come to this life?

How did the high-school me, who never would have covered up a cute shirt with an apron, come to this?

How did the college me, who ate cold cereal and Twizzlers for dinner and was hopelessly devoted to both Chris Cornell of Soundgarden and Lenny Kravitz, come to this?

How did the early-married me, who in her corporate-ladder haste attempted omelets with Eggbeaters that had been in the fridge for ages, come to this?

I have no idea how these things happen, these growing-up things that bring us to care about where our bread comes from, that broaden our tastes in everything from eggs to music, but I admit I think it’s nice. And I’ve saved all the pieces of old me that I care to have around — the me that likes cute shirts, for example. And Lenny, though not my first choice anymore, remains kind of hot.

Share this Post

Comments (2) »

Good life

I’m a little out of practice. My laptop died in early October — just like that: Poof! — and in the wake of its demise I lost a good year’s worth of my computer-code-encrypted self.

I went through a kind of amnesia. Who am I? And what am I supposed to do now that I can’t tote my little computer companion (computanion, anyone?) around all my waking hours? I’ve had to resort to this dusty old desktop, which groans its way out of hibernation each morning and is rather mean-spirited toward any kind uploading, downloading, or plugins. That has meant that blogging, and especially blogging with pictures, is a little less feasible, i.e., not as fun.

But I’ve found that in lieu of tap-tap-tapping away superfluously on a keyboard half the day, there are many other really wonderful things to do with my time. For instance, I’ve discovered that my girls are pretty dang cute. And I’ve been reading books, those bound materials in which words are printed on paper pages.

And I quote: “Paper (noun): a substance made from wood pulp, rags, straw, or other fibrous material, usually in thin sheets, used to bear writing or printing, for wrapping things, etc.”

One bit of paper I’m going to miss along with many of you is Gourmet magazine. When I heard all the way back in early October that Conde Nast would be ceasing publication, I immediately regretted not picking up, for a mere 25 cents an issue, all the back issues I’d seen at the library recently. My little library, and likely yours too, sells back issues of all kinds of magazines, and when I’d walked past the stack of Gourmets, I’d eyed them with curiosity but not exactly longing.

The next time I stopped at the library, I immediately went to the 25 cent racks, but by that time the rack was selling issues of Bon Appetit. I did a little digging and turned up a single leftover Gourmet, from January 1986. The cover features a stack of straw gondolier hats in Venice, and a quick flip through the issue reveals tiny type and an awful lot of black and white.

The photography was less than stellar back then, and each dish was so tightly and symmetrically arranged, posed in spotless silver serving ware, graced with garnishes that themselves were like little works of art. It makes me glad that my Gourmet-reading years were the Ruth Reichl ones, the ones when the teams of photographers and food stylists and editors realized how much more appetizing a pudding could seem when a spoon had already lifted a bite from it, when tableside crumbs from crusty bread were left to be photographed (indeed, positioned to be in the picture) and dribbles of soy sauce could be seen on parchment.

I know the magazine celebrated high living, but its last several years were hardly out of reach. The travel and some of the ingredients, maybe. But it nevertheless gave me a simple awareness of the world of food that is out there, and that, combined with issues full of accessible recipes, elevated my cooking.

Share this Post

Comments (3) »

Substance

[Recipe: Whole-Wheat English Muffin Bread]

DSC_3135

I know: It’s not pretty. But pretty was not the point. Thankfully, my goals had more to do with substance than with outside appearance.

I just wanted to bake a loaf of bread. I wanted aroma. I wanted a medium-crisp crust that gave way to a springy and delicate crumb. I wanted something appropriate for a mid-afternoon pick-me-up, something that could hold its own equally well with a light slick of chunky peanut butter or a skosh of honey.

Summing it up, then: I was after taste, texture, warmth — all those qualities, yes, but not beauty.

And that’s a good thing, especially since this is often the type of outcome we can expect when we delegate: the results might not exactly meet our unremitting standards. (Take, for example, when you give your kid the job of cleaning the bathroom or making their own bed.)

I delegated the making of this loaf to my bread maker. It’s an appliance that hasn’t seen a lot of action lately, because I’ve been trying to do the bread-baking thing with my own two hands. But today I was in the mood for this specific recipe, and besides, there was definitely something liberating about dumping all the ingredients into the metal bowl and letting something else do the work for once — and then having it taste really, really good.

Even if the result wasn’t much to look at.

Whole-Wheat English Muffin Bread for the Bread Maker

adapted from KingArthurFlour.com

1 teaspoon vinegar
1/2 cup water
1 cup milk
2 tablespoons butter or canola oil
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
3 1/2 cups whole-wheat flour (I used a combination of white & red whole wheat)
2 1/4 teaspoons instant yeast
cornmeal (optional)

Program your machine for basic white bread, light crust. Midway through the second kneading cycle, check the dough; it should be soft, smooth and slightly sticky. Adjust the dough’s consistency with additional flour or water, if necessary. For a true English muffin effect, remove the dough after either the final kneading or before the final rise and roll it in cornmeal. Place the dough back in the machine to rise and bake.

Share this Post

Comments (6) »